October 18, 2015

October 18, 2015

                    

We were up by 7 a.m. in Budapest (or midnight at home).  We joined the remaining American couple and the other Canadian couple from our evening dining companions, for breakfast.  After breakfast good-byes, we got our jackets, and walked about two km on the dewy sun deck.  The sun was peeking through some cloud and the temperature was 4 C, we could see our breath. The sun was shining on the only statue in Budapest erected during the Russian occupation, a bronze statue of a woman raising a palm leave to the sky. It had been commissioned before the Russians arrived and was allowed to be erected with a slight change.  After the Russians left Budapest, the citizens voted on which Russian statues to keep and this was the only one selected. As we walked our laps on the walking track, it was interesting watching the crew load the colour coded tagged luggage on a baggage cart and three people were needed to haul the cart up a 20 meter ramp and along a 40 meter walkway and load the luggage onto a 10 meter conveyor belt. The luggage was then lined up on the sidewalk by the buses, so that people could identify their suitcases and see them loaded onto the proper bus with them to go to the airport.  Budapest has a lovely modern airport.  At one of the coffee places we noticed that slices of Dobos Torte, which was a menu item on the ship on dinnertime.   We left Budapest today, departing from the ship by 10:15 a.m. for the 30 minutes drive to the airport for the 1 p.m. departure of our to two hour flight to Amsterdam. The 737 plane did not have any television and the safety presentation was done by the cabin crew.  We walked a bit at the Amsterdam airport before boarding the next plane for a little over eight hour flight to Toronto. The step count was 15,107. The plane departed 30 minutes late, at 6 p.m., but there was a good cushion of time in Toronto. We were served a meal about two hours into the flight. There was chicken and rice, a zesty salad of peppers, corn and tomato, a fresh bun, a half litre bottle of water, a light foamy dessert mousse with a berry topping. wine, a piece of beemister cheese and two crackers.  About two hours after dinner was finished, the cabin stewards offered a 250 ml carton of vanilla cream and a 250 ml container of water to those people not sleeping. About an hour before landing, we were served a cinnamon bun and coffee, tea, juice or water.  We had lots of time to make all of the connections. Neither of us slept on the 8 hour trip from Amsterdam.  We had to go through Canada Customs and pickup our luggage before leaving the customs area, then, we needed to recheck our suitcases again and pass through security in order to get to the departure area. We hadn’t even, between the two of us, purchased the duty free allowance for a weekend away.  Once on the departure side, we paused for an Iced Cappuccino at the Tim Hortons booth.  It was another 15 minutes before we arrived at the gate.  We needed to descend two flights of stairs and go under the tarmac where the planes unloaded their passengers, then ascend two more flights of stairs (Escalators were available, as were moving walkways, but we did not use them, unless given no choice.) Then we arrived at the glistening new Westjet Gates B1 to B5 and had walked over 2,500 steps since arriving in Toronto!  The final flight home left a few minutes late, about 10:30, since the plane needed to be de-iced, and we landed just after midnight and took a taxi home.  The lawn had been nicely raked and all four trees had dropped their leaves in our absence.

Final steps total = 18,753, over 17 km.

October 17, 2015

October 17, 2015

                    

We have the whole day in Budapest, before departing for home tomorrow. At 12 C and cloudy, there is a chance of sunshine later.  It is our earliest start at 8:15 for four hours of touring through historic Buda, built on a hillside and modern Pest (pronounced “Pesht”) which is on flat ground on the other side of the Danube River.

We ate breakfast in the Aquavit Terrace rather than going to the dining room, there was only one other person there.

The groups were off on their tours on time.  Our guide, Suzsie, explained the history of Budapest as we travelled to Castle Hill. There are many thermal spas in Buda and have been for centuries. Like some other cities the area was first inhabited by the Celts, then the Romans. Buda was part of the Roman Empire, but not Pest since the river was the boundary. Then the nomadic Magyars arrived and settled until a Mongol invasion in the 13^th century.  They decided that to safeguard themselves it would be best to build a fortress on the hill.  The end result was a walled castle complex that included a town within the walls. Hungary eventually became part of the Hapsburg Empire, but in 1867 the name was changed to the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. In 1878, Buda and Pest joined together to become Budapest.  Buda means water.  We crossed the Chain Bridge with its lion guards to get to the Buda side, which houses about a third of the 1.5 million population of the city.

The bus stopped at the Fisherman’s Bastion, one of the castle’s gates. The group walked along Castle Hill, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from Fishermen’s Bastion to Matthias Church, (officially Church of Our Lady). As we walked toward the church, an old Soviet car was parked prominently by the curbside.  We were told that people had to order the small “paper and plastic” car, a Trabant, four years in advance and it was not a safe car.  There are still some buildings from the 14^th century which have had their exteriors reconstructed with original colours.  There was a pretty three storey building with an orange and yellow design on it.  Matthias was the first king crowned in 1026 and is also St. Stephen.  The crown was given to him by the pope who officiated at the ceremony and was happy that the people were be converting to Catholicism.  We entered the church, which was completed in 1247, as the boys choir was practicing for Sunday’s service.  The interior is bright and is beautifully decorated on the walls, pillars and ceiling.  It had been transformed into a mosque in two days, when the Turks had captured Buda.  All the human images were removed and the walls and ceiling changed to just white for the victory celebration of the Turks.  When we left the church we had 45 minutes of free time to wander in the old town streets. We found the old Maria Magdona Tower with bells in the tower, the National Archives building of red brick and a 1486 tower incorporated into the modern Hilton hotel. Then we were back in the bus and drove over to Pest.

Pest means oven, as in brick oven. When the Hungarian tribes, known as the Magyar and a nomadic people, conquered the area, they thought it unusual that these people were living in brick buildings. We passed a pond which in winter is an outdoor skating rink and had a lovely one storey building to change into your skates. The Hungarian Parliament building is the third largest in the world, second largest in Europe after Romania.  The competition for a plan was so fierce that the plans for the second and third place buildings were also built on the opposite side of the square from the chosen design.  They are all attractive buildings.  Hungary celebrated its millennium in 1896 with many new buildings; some had a special tile on their roofs made from a mixture of pyro granite and porcelain. The yellow metal bridge over the Danube River was designed by Eifel, the designer of Paris’ Eifel Tower, it is known as the Margaret Bridge. Another bridge, the Chain Bridge, was completed in 1848 and was the first bridge in Europe over the Danube River.  We drove along Andrássy ÚT and saw the National Opera House and stopped at Heroes’ Square to learn about Hungary’s historic leaders. The monument was finished in 1896 in honour of Hungary’s Millennium.  Our tour was almost over and we returned to the ship four hours after we started.  Steps 6, 568

After lunch, the temperature was 14 C and the sun was trying to penetrate the cloud, Claus took people on a ten minute stroll to the Market building, something like Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market.  Then, we could explore as much as we wanted.  After meandering among the aisles and floors of the market, we walked along Váci Utca shopping pedestrian road for blocks, which when we returned to the ship we had walked about 8 km this afternoon. There was no rain but the sun had been hidden by clouds and it looked like a shower could occur before dinner.

Final Briefing from Claus wishing people safe journeys home and reminding to put luggage out in the hall at prescribed times.  Dinner was a Hungarian Theme, for our final dinner with our evening companions for the past 14 dinners.  Wine and beer were served to start, with a piece of sausage wrapped in pastry as the two bite starter. We ordered either Hungarian Farmer’s Plate – a slice of salami, ham and some pickles, or Vanilla Poached Scallops on Avocado Tartar as appetizer, next for the entrée we both chose was Beef Goulash. Then for dessert we ordered Tokay Wine Mousse & Caramelized Walnuts then shared a small slice of Dobos Torte with coffee.  With dinner finished it was time to say good bye to the New York couple who will be off the ship early to catch their 6:30 a.m. plane.  The rest of us will see each other at breakfast.  We promised to keep in touch. This evening there is a Hungarian Folk band in the Lounge at 9. Some of the songs were familiar.  We danced to a couple of tunes when Jerzoy returned to the piano and then called it a night.

Final steps total = 21,253 almost 20 km.

October 16, 2015

October 16, 2015

                    

This morning was spent in Bratislava, Slovakia. At 12 C, with a light drizzle, we took our umbrellas on the walking tour. 

On our way to breakfast, we picked up our excursion number and guest pass. We sat with our dinner companions from Toronto and a couple from Florida for breakfast. 

The groups were off on their Bratislava bus and walking tour by 8:30, everyone wishing that they could have slept in this morning.  There was an optional tour where the passengers visited a typical Slovakian home, to see the traditional and modern daily life in Slovakia. Our guide, Eva, gave a commentary as the bus passed buildings. She mentioned that in and around the city there are automobile assembly factories for Volkswagon, Citroen and Kia. She pointed out some of the embassies. Near where the ship is docked is a 1972 cable bridge with a circular restaurant on top. Bratislava was the temporary Hungarian Empire capital for 250 years.  We passed St. Martin’s Cathedral which was completed in 1452 and was the site of the coronation of 19 Hapsburg rules, including Maria Theresa in 1741.  On our climb to Castle Hill, we passed the Slovakian Parliament building. There was first a wooden fortress on the hill, but it burned in 907 when the Mongul Tartars invaded.  In the 13^th century the fortress was rebuilt, only one tower remains from it, and again in the 15^th century. When Maria Theresa’s favourite daughter, Maria Christina, married she ordered a renovation. Maria Christina was the only one of Maria Theresa’s children to marry for love and the couple lived in Bratislava Castle. A quick look around and it was back to the bus for the walking tour of the old town. The Slovakian Parliament building was across the street from Bratislava Castle. The walled city, in the past, had been surrounded by a wet moat. You could see the pulleys used for the drawbridge mechanism.  We entered through St. Michael’s gate, which is part of a double gate protection system. The streets are a pedestrian area now and narrow, lined with shops and cafés.  We passed the Town Hall with its Watch Tower and came to the main square of the old city where there stood a statue of Emperor Maximilion whose coronation was in 1563.  The people lit fireworks to celebrate and sparks started a fire. Emperor Maximilion later financed the building of a fountain in the square, so that firefighting would be easier than going down to the river for water.  There is a mixture of architectural styles, including a yellow house of Art Nouveau style.  We arrived at the site where the gate closest to the river used to be and our tour ended with instructions of how to walk the 5 or 6 minute stroll back to the ship.  There was 75 minutes of free time to explore, but the drizzle had turned into a light rain.  With our umbrellas open we walked along a parkway between two streets for several blocks just to get a longer walk before returning to the ship.      Steps 4,217

The ship left Bratislava at noon, in a gentle rain, on the way to Budapest, Hungary.  The afternoon was spent on the Danube.  After lunch, and with no rain, there was an opportunity to go to the navigation wheelhouse and step inside it.   The timing was great since during the hour we passed through a lock, that lowered the ship 45 meters, and the Viking Legend shared the lock space beside us, to the level of the Danube on the other side of a hydroelectric dam.  This is the last lock/dam of the trip.  We took the opportunity to walk some laps on the walking track.

Later in the afternoon there was Austrian Tea and a live demonstration of making Apple Strudel.

Before dinner, at least one person from each cabin was asked to attend the 5 o’clock meeting for the instructions for disembarking and settling bills on Sunday. 

Then there was Captain Mikola Uzlyuk’s Farewell Cocktail Party toast. The bar staff served champagne and champagne mixtures.  One of the passengers gave a toast to the crew. Next, Claus gave the details for tomorrow’s itinerary which starts at 8:15 a.m., our earliest start of the trip.

Tonight’s Farewell dinner had a special menu, partly set items. As usual, wine and beer were served, and we had a two bite sampler of vegetable sushi, the appetizer was either Salmon tartar or tandoori chicken & parmesan foam, followed by white asparagus soup with a prosciutto wrapped breadstick.   Then a pumpkin mousse ravioli with lamb leading to the entrée of either beef wellington and sautéed vegetables or pan fried prawns and potato soufflé. Then for dessert, it was dark valrhona chocolate tart and coffee or tea and some dark chocolate candies.  We all got to keep the specially printed menus.

When we returned to the cabin, the trip questionnaire was waiting – 4 pages for the main voyage and 2 pages for the shore excursions.  Plus there were the baggage tags and departure times for the different flights.

Having fought a cold all day I called it a night, Larry waited for the nighttime entry into Budapest with all the lights showing off some important buildings.

Final steps total = 8,062 just over 7 km.

October 15, 2015

October 15, 2015

                    

Today was spent in Vienna, Austria. At 8 C and cloudy, rain was predicted.  We had picked up our excursion number and guest pass on our way to breakfast.

We sat with the brother and sister from Delaware and a couple from Florida for breakfast. 

The announcement for the walking tour came at 8:45, so we gathered our receivers, cameras, sweaters, gloves and rain suits. Our guide was Thomas.

Vienna was a small Celtic settlement for several centuries before the arrival of the Romans – 2 legions of soldiers. When the Romans left some Germanic tribes took over, but little is known about that time. Then the Babenbergs ruled the area for two hundred years, before the Hapsburg dynasty, which lasted until World War I.

The driving tour included the Ringstrasse, a boulevard of grand buildings and palaces, which replaced the old city walls. The medieval old town is called Innere Stadt (Inner City) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is a large park in Vienna with an amusement park which includes a large Ferris Wheel; the park is double the size of New York City’s Central Park.

We were shown the numerous baroque buildings, which used to be inside the old city wall, in the Innere Stadt.  We drove past St. Charles Church with its copper dome; the Opera House that was rebuilt after World War II due to bombing, having been mistaken for the train station; the first museum building in Vienna; a statue of Maria Theresa who ruled from 1740-80; the House of Parliament; the Neolithic style Town Hall; the Neo-Gothic Votive Church with its interesting roof design, St. Stephan’s Cathedral and Hofburg Palace.

We got off the bus near Hofburg Palace for the walking tour.  We walked into “Heroes Square” which is surrounded by buildings from the later years of the 19^th century.  The new palace was started in 1887 and was not completed until 1923, after the collapse of the Hapsburgs dynasty (1918).  The wing built for Leopold has a light green and yellow painted exterior. There are several different architectural styles to the additions.  The Swiss Chapel entrance was pointed out and under it is the Treasury.   Hitler annexed Austria in 1938 and made the announcement from the balcony of this building.  The Hapsburg’s were rulers of Spain and the Netherland during their several centuries as the monarchs of much of Europe. This is the home of the Spanish Riding Academy.  The white horses are born black and gradually change their hair colour as they mature. After the palace we went on a walking tour of the buildings in the area, many are in the Baroque architectural style.  There are statues of historically significant figures in some of the squares. The tour ended at St. Stephan’s Church, a sister church to the one in Passau. It is 333 feet long 111 feet wide and 444 feet to the top of the highest spire.  The bell in the tower is made from melted down Turkish cannons gathered after the defeat of the Turks in the 1680s.

We were bussed back to the ship for lunch, where we sat with a couple from Arizona.  When we finished, we checked the internet connection, but it was poor.  Two of the couples from our dinner table went on an excursion to Vienna’s Farmers Market with the ship’s Chef and took the subway back and forth. There were over 20 people who went.

This afternoon, in a light drizzle, we were on another tour, this time at the Schönbrunn Palace, which was the summer residence of the Hapsburgs. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with several different large formal gardens.  It was designed and built from 1696 to 1705 and rebuilt in 1744-47 for Marie Theresa’s changes. Our guide was Thomas, the same guide that we had on the morning walking tour. We browsed in the gift shop for a short while before it was our turn to enter the palace for the guided tour. Tour groups entered every 5 minuutes. We were not allowed to take photos of the interior rooms. We viewed over a dozen rooms, some with ceiling frescoes. A question in the 400 square meter ballroom was how long did the ball last. The answer was about 40 to 50 minutes – as long as the candles burned.  If the honoured guest was very important, then longer candles would be used. There was lots of gilding of architectural details.  In the room where Marie Theresa sat in her bed, at least king size, to present her first son, there was a large tapestry made of metallic thread and created by men.  She had 16 children, 11 girls and 5 boys.  Her most famous daughter was Marie Antoinette who was married to the French King Louis XVI and was beheaded during the French Revolution. After a quick look at the palace gardens it was time to get on the bus.  The temperature was 13 and a light mist had started. 

The Friday program briefing and dinner were early due to the Mozart and Strauss music concert this evening.

For dinner, as wine and beer were served, we were given a small two bite chicken satay, we had an appetizer of Greek Salad, next for the entrée was Onion Steak with mashed corn (like masked potato consistency) Then for dessert, Chocolate Cake with a chocolate sauce and coffee or tea. 

At 7:30 most of the ship got on to buses to go to the Royal Palace for a Mozart and Strauss music concert this evening. There about 1,000 people in the hall, mostly from river cruise ships. What a contrast to 18^th century paintings on the walls of ballrooms! Here, the walls and ceiling were decorated with gigantic murals of 21^st century modern art, in bright orange and other accent colours, which contracted with the white bordered frames.  The music was beautifully played by a 23 piece orchestra and 4 opera singers.  There were elements of fun especially from the percussion section. The concert ended with the Blue Danube Waltz and the Radetzki March.  We were back at ship before 11, and there was the smell of goulash wafting through the lobby, for those interested in a late night snack, due to the early dinner.  We just went to our cabin, it had been a long day.

Final steps total = 11,822, about 10.5 km.